Le Bacon: Mediterranean fish romance with the French Riviera
Le Bacon is a family restaurant for decades attracting the rich and famous seeking authentic quality on the French Riviera. Those appreciating top quality of wild fish and seafood will spin with euphoria. The signature Biot glass lamps add only a pinch of intimate illumination to each table.
Le Bacon’s proximity to the legendary Hôtel du Cap Eden Roc on the Cap d’Antibes lures a considerate proportion of the hotel’s well-heeled clientele to the restaurant. Bacon’s fish and seafood is better than the meal at the gastronomic restaurant at the Eden-Roc. The dining room is also much more comfortable, friendly and not too formal. Bacon is romantic, relaxed and cosy. Having one of the best views between Cannes and Antibes sets you for a special meal. Overlooking the ancient Antibes port with the rocky Alpes Maritimes in the horizon and to the east, the blue sea of the Baie des Anges (Niçoise Bay of Angels), the vista cannot be more wow!
The family members welcome each guest at the door, ushering all to the table. Everyone feels pampered at Bacon by the attentive staff. For lunch the dress code is more casual, but let the flip-flops on the beach. In the evening, a jacket and women ideally wear an elegant dress or chic pants.
From the Bouillabaisse to local seasonal fish and seafood, most is prepared according to the by years-proven recipes of the family. The current chef creates a new amouse-bouche every evening. In the old best days, Serge Philippin was the chef at the Restaurant de Bacon since 1978, who snapped a star from the Guide Michelin in 1985. Still, Bacon is very good, but not excellent.
From the appetisers my favourites are the refreshing Poisson cru au citron et aux herbes. A thinly sliced delicate white fish marinated softly in lemon juice, olive oil and herbs. After a hot day at the beach this an excellent light starter.
Staying on the lighter side the Fricassée de Langouste tiède à l’estragon is a perfect match to a mineral white Burgundy or toasted Champagne like Krug Grande Cuvée. The crayfish is lightly sautéed with tarragon and served on a bed of green salad with olive oil. Perfectly balanced and delicate.
Also from the warm appetisers and perhaps the most creative is Fricassée de rougets tièdes à l’estragon. The mellow pieces of red mullet are drizzled with tarragon, lettuce, crispy onions, fresh and juicy tomatoes. It is a heavenly dish and one of the best ways of serving red mullet I have had the pleasure to enjoy so far.
A gourmand treat is the Délice de loup aux Truffes du Haut Var. Thin ravioli filled with a super soft mash of sea bass with truffles bathe in a creamy yet light sauce with minced vegetables.
Similar are Ravioles de Langouste dans son fumet. A slight upgrade of the filling, the crayfish is gently cooked in its juice.
For the Foie gras aficionados this in some countries controversial delicacy is served as a pâté typical in French restaurants. Bacon is not only about fish as the produce of the land pops out on the menu.
I mostly get fish, occasionally I steer to seafood when the rare Mediterranean rock lobster is on the daily catch offer.
The fish can be grilled with fennel, steamed or cooked in a papillote. It is served with olive oil, basil butter sauce, chervil butter or in its broth. It is wise to ask the waiter what fish he would suggest on that day as it varies. If I am not in an adventurous mood I stick with a sea bass (bar) cooked “grandmother style“. It is served with tagliatelle pasta, potatoes or a vegetable side dish. The chef is very creative with condiments so I never get tired of the bass as it is slightly different each time. The fish has always been excellently prepared.
Bacon often also has a dorade (John Dory), sea bream, red snapper, turbot and then plenty of seasonal local fish like the white fleshed denti.
Most of the desserts are served with fruit. I love the Millefeuille with a light cream and wild strawberries or get a portion of the wild strawberries on their own or with fluffy chantilly. A local lady picks them on the edges of the Mediterranean forests nearby. When I feel like I need a sweet bomb with a powerful rum boost, then I like to order the Rhum Baba, which is a sponge cake with a drop of rum. At Bacon you can select the rum that suits your palate the most, just ask David, who is in charge of the drinks and he will happily advise you on the right one – more sweet, oaky or sharper – get a shot.
Since 2008 I have eaten at Bacon every summer season on countless occasions.
Price: very high (the best fish does not come cheap and the fishermen need to be rewarded for their super early working hours, appetisers between €20-75, fish around €80 per 500g – a big fish can reach €300 and above)
Drinks: The wine list is worthy of Bacon’s reputation. It is purely French – from the heights of the Burgundy’s legendary producers Romanée Conti and Domaine d’Auvenay to more sober Côtes de Provence you will find something to suit your budget. A glass of Champagne or a luscious Bellini as an aperitif and an intense Armagnac for a digestif. A cup of verbena or chamomile infusion to round up your spectacular dinner will be served with homemade biscuits. Especially, I love the wafer-thin crispy ones with almond shavings called Tuiles, an authentic Provençal speciality.
March-October open daily except on Mondays and for lunch also on Tuesdays.
+33 4 93 61 50 02
Boulevard de Bacon, Cap d’Antibes, 06160, France