Japan Archives - Page 3 of 3

Sushi Yoshitake: the best of sea on land in Tokyo sushi

Yoshitake is an exclusive member of the coveted club reserved solely for three-Michelin-stared sushi chefs in Ginza. Serving Edo-mae sushi right in front of you, all matching the seasonally changing Japanese ceramics is as much a performance as it is a gustatory pleasure. Although his nigiri sushi is traditional, the chef’s consistently superb otsumami (snacks) and slight twists of the sauces lifts this omakase from your overloaded memory of raw fish sampling in Japan. The tiny restaurant is hidden, like most of its fish-centered siblings in this ultra-dense area, inside a nondescript building behind a Japanese sign, confusing even local taxi drivers. Two small but comfortable and simply elegant rooms accommodate a maximum of 11 diners. The larger room is reserved for Yoshitake-sen, and the more private is served by his protegee.

Watching Yoshitake or his longtime honed co-chef (above) slicing and assembling each plate is entertaining for foreigners even more since most of the staff here are very friendly and speak English, a rarity at restaurants in Japan. The sushi counters are made from a single slab of hinoki (cypress) wood, highly praised for its finesse.
The omakase starts with interesting, seafood-based snacks (otsumami) like the highly seasonal November Koubako female crab with its roe jelly, followed by a number of sashimi plates, which in the fall could be Ika (delicate squid), Kanpachi (amberjack), Saba (mackerel) or other seasonal fish.
More otsumami such as the warm Tender octopus and in its seasonal peak juicy and smooth Ikura (salmon roe) sprinkled atop rice in a cup preceded the highlight of the dinner, the Steamed abalone with Liver sauce.

The steamed and sliced precious Awabi (abalone) was served with an oddly olive-meets-seaweed coloured sauce of the abalone’s liver and other ‘secret’ ingredients. The tender, silky smooth texture of such perfectly cooked flesh, dipped in the thick and intensely rich sauce, was one of the best dishes of my indulgent life. If you show signs of heavenly bliss as we did, for the leftover sauce you get a small cup of rice to mix it up. The rice is savoury, seasoned with red vinegar as for all of the chef’s sushi.
The Seared Bonito sashimi was repeatedly (I’ve dined at Yoshitake for three consecutive autumns) the best I have ever had and is always served in November. Its slightly smoked crispy skin melts the underlying fat and the meaty raw centre contrasts wonderfully with its chewy texture. Topped with finely diced pea shoots that like a feather on flesh lift up the fish up to soaring heights.
Steamed egg custard in a tiny cup layered with male crab warms you up for the second part of the omakase tasting – about nine bites of seasonal nigiri sushi (O-Toro and Chu-Toro are always included) closed off by Temaki tuna hand roll. A slice of Tamago, at Yoshitake styled like a slightly sweet rolled omelette seasoned with soy sauce and rice vinegar as in Japanese breakfast egg omelette, cleans up your palate from all that fishiness. It arrives customarily to mark the end of the set tasting. If you want more sushi, the chef will ask you before serving it, and will charge each extra piece.
A small bowl of the final miso-based Owan soup settles the stomach as does a cup of green or roasted hojicha tea that is usually served at the end.

This eight-to-ten seats sushi counter differs significantly from the legendary ultra-casual Sukiyabashi Jiro Honten, which serves some 20 courses of nigiri omakase in less than 20 minutes. Unfortunately, Jiro’s medialized sushi had become the ultimate fast food for millionaires, and this is why I prefer Yoshitake where you will be treated as an honourable guest having at least two hours to spare on his sushi counter.
Since Jiro is charging a very high price some diners might be disappointed for the lack of creativity, innovation and time reserved for your enjoyment, the qualities Yoshitake possesses. It is important to mention though that it is the chef’s skill with the knife and his ability to get the best produce that is the most regarded in a master sushi chef. The top hats can only be thus found in Japan, in Tokyo as the sushi’s birthplace in particular.

While acquiring top produce on the daily auction at the Tsukiji market, the chef’s skill is being assessed in terms of technique and appearance. Yoshitake ticked all the boxes for the inspectors as well as for picky diners like me. He not only has these thousands-hours-honed skills, but he had imprinted his own stamp in the highly competitive empire of Tokyo sushi establishments.

Some sushis remain simple showcasing only their pure nature while in others the fish is slightly marinated. The Mackerel benefitted from being marinated in vinaigrette, reminding me of the herring served with pickles in Scandinavia. This North Sea evoking glistening silvery fish looked as if it jumped into a costume from the Star Trek film series. The chef also made a Mackerel roll more appealing, adding a zesty shiso leaf and crispy roe inside turned it into a one bite delicacy.
The Hokkaido uni that can be found year around was presented in two textures and two servings, on a bun of rice and wrapped in a sheet of crispy seaweed. On the top the more mature, dense and defined uni, while underneath an almost liquid, but like a raw egg-yolk rich and complex composition of intense fragrances.

As is common for sushi, the most fit drinks are beer or sake, but wine is increasingly also being offered. The wine selection is typically limited, but thoughtful. Champagne, Burgundies, but also some New World wines that caught the palate of the chef comprising the refined selection. Once we had a bottle of a village Puligny-Montrachet, a smart choice of a well-rounded unfiltered Chardonnay with white flowers, green apple and mineral freshness.

These days we prefer sake with sushi. The choices are limited but span from driest to the sweetest and fruity. We like the middle ground that is balanced, full-bodied, and smooth, often unpasteurized sake consumed cold – the daiginjo style, in which over 50% of rice is polished away from the kernels during its production. The above sake fits our taste.
Although it is tough to get a seat at a three-star restaurant in Tokyo, a last minute cancellation (100% must be paid when the reservation is made) and establishing personal contact with the chef, who remembers your name, are key to success.
Address: 3F, Suzuryu Bldg, 8-7-19 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Contact: +(81) 03-6253-7331
Opening hours: Only for dinner from Mon-Sat: 6 pm first & 8:30 for the second seating. Closed for holidays.
Credit cards ar accepted and there is a 100% cancellation policy from the previous day of your reservation.

Kikunoi: the most revered kaiseki restaurant in Kyoto

Kikunoi is perhaps the most influential kaiseki restaurant in Kyoto. The cuisine is traditional with a pinch of avant-garde as conducted by its third generation owner/chef Yoshihiro Murata. Inspiring three Michelin-stared and highly aspiring Japanese chefs, Kinukoi is a reference to perfection directed by nature and skills.

As buses packed with Japanese and foreign tourists flock to this former emperor’s capital to admire the magic of the autumnal changing of the leafs’ colours, the kaiseki chefs shift their tasting menus to display the bounty of the fall produce. Kaiseki has been always directed by seasonality. November, in the old Japanese called Shimotsuki, is the starting season for the leggy snow crabs, sweet citrusy yuzu, cooked chestnuts, but also the tender orange persimmon fruit.

Yuzu, the widely used Japanese fragrant citrus, is the most aromatic when in season in Japan (late November & December), and the chef at Kikuoi decided to show it off in a number of dishes. Such as in the Sakizuke, a simple starter welcoming the guest, of Yuzu tofu, yuzu miso sauce and diced yuzu. This was a fragrant reminder of how in the West we get just a dainty reflection of this impactful Japanese lemon. Spooning out the creamy tofu from a hollow yuzu peal, I wished there was more of it, but as the evening progressed, I was constantly being assured, that every single dish was a work of art pleasing my taste buds.

Hassun, an assortment of appetizers, sets the seasonal theme of every kaiseki dinner. After a sip of sweet sake served in a shallow lid-shaped cup we nibbled on Yuzu sansho cup with monkfish liver and mucous shimeji mushrooms, squid smeared with sea urchin roe, pungent cured mullet roe, miso-flavored duck liver terrine with brandied raisins, chestnut crackers, ginkgo nuts and green tea noodle fans shapes as pine needles. Wrapped in a pure white paper, tied up with red and white strings, the hassun recalled the typical rice dumplings eaten in November to celebrate the Kyoto’s Gencho festival.

We were treated twice to the course of Mukozuke, which is a seasonal sashimi. First came a hand-painted plate in colours mirroring the meal of fresh Tai sashimi (red sea bream) and red & white striped prawn. The later was crunchy on the outside, smooth and delicate on the inside given to the chef’s quick immersion of the gently cooked prawn in an ice water. Accompanied by freshly grated kicking green wasabi and yellow moist chrysanthemum flowers, this was a highly creative and exquisite dish any sushi master would bow to.

Since kaiseki also reflects the Japanese custom to nosh on a little of food, rather than devouring a large pot of stew or an entire animal, each dish is just big enough to convey the flavours, but not to fill you up. Your belly will be gradually sated by the addition of the multiple courses yet to come. Our next mukozuke was a simple sashimi dish of koshibi, a young bluefin tuna, served with a dollop of spicy mustard and a side dip of soy and raw egg yolk sauce. An adventurous preparation, but the meaty flash of the fish added a creamy rich texture as in sukiyaki.

The courses started to heat up with by a lid covered Takiawase of Wakasa tilefish steamed with starchy chestnuts, millet (grain once eaten often in Japan), baby daikon radish, kintoki carrot, shiitake mushrooms, yuzu peel, in a thick green chrysanthemum sauce. Clean yet full of flavours this softly textured soupy dish was harmonious and soothing.

At this point there was a need for a palate refresher. The Yuzu-wasabi sorbet was a mastery of simplicity backed by scientific understanding of our taste buds. First the mellow sweetness of the yuzu calms the palate, and it is only later when kicks in the pungent spicy wasabi, cleaning out any remaining taste memories from the previous dishes. Now, you are ready for the next courses.

Visual appeal of a kaiseki meal is as important as its taste and quality, so the chef selects accordingly the serving dishes and constructs a theme typically evoking nature and how the ingredients integrate in it. Concealed under the golden vibrance of ginkgo and the fire-red hues of the local five-fingered maple leafs was an almost invisible Barracuda fish grilled and wrapped in cedar, nesting next to it were tiny slices of medium-rare duck breast grilled with sansho pepper, and aside candied walnuts in a small bowl to add sweetness if needed. This Yakimono, or grilled dish, clearly stated that fall had arrived.

Snow crab (matsuba-gani) is highly praised in Japan, with its season starting in November, the chef served this long-legged king of crabs boiled with its shells neatly cracked so its delicate flash could be easily pealed out with an assorted bamboo stick. The chef Murata sources this crab from Tottori Prefecture on Honshu, known for the best snow crabs in Japan. Its juicy and sweet meat is best eaten with a simple sauce such as the yuzu juice pictured above.

Surely the most challenging dish for a westerner was the Shark’s fin & turtle hot pot at Kikunoi. My first encounter with turtle meat was not a love at first sight, but the crunchy, almost squid-like texture of the shark’s fin was interesting in its purity. My husband noted though that he enjoys is much better with a richer sauce or spices as in Chinese cooking. I chewed through this Futamono, a lidded substantial dish, but welcomed the next and final savoury course – the Gohan – steamed rice topped with popping salmon eggs. Served with a side of Japanese pickles (Ko no mono) and a bowl of intense white miso soup (Tome-wan), this was the filler for these, who still needed more food. We could have as much rice as we wanted as our kimono-clad server happily announced.

Recently, kaiseki has become more exported from Japan as its bold chefs, encouraged by popularity of Japanese cuisine once dominated only by sushi, venture to Paris and elsewhere to show this elaborate Japanese culinary art to the world. Some, like Guilo-Guilo in Paris switch to a more casual tone, while others, such as the well-known chef Okuda present kaiseki in its highly refined form. Kikunoi’s Daishiro persimmon splashed with brandy would be one of the possible dishes on their autumn menus in Paris, since the French also grow their own persimmon, known there as ‘kaki’, and it is as juicy when ripe as is in Japan. The Mizumono dessert of Sweet bean paste served to accompany our bowl of powdered green matcha tea at Kikunoi could also keep high standard of freshness when served there.

Unfortunately, these chefs abroad have to compete with the following enemies: local availability of their familiar ingredients; their knowledge of non-Japanese alternatives; presenting the potentially austere character of their traditionally Japanese degustation menu to the less-adventurous local customers. My dinner at Okuda in Paris was discouraging in the chef’s ability to transport this emblematic Kyoto-style cuisine far from his native country. Unless, someone adjusts kaiseki to the local climate, I will rather fly to Japan in order to enjoy this artful meal at its best.

Whether you like to nibble on little delicious creations, love seasonal cooking or are curious about Japanese culture of food that evolved from the traditional tea ceremony (chanoyu), dining in one of the 11 private tatami rooms, with comfortably heated floors ( practical when you have to take your shoes off), gazing out into a traditional Japanese garden and your personal kimono-clad waitress bowing constantly while serving food and superb for Kikunoi exclusive sake, make for an unforgettable experience.

While adhering to the principles of the traditional Kyoto-style kaiseki (kyo-kaiseki), Murata is not holding his cuisine from evolving and growth, so most of his dishes are customised to our modern tastes.
You can READ MORE about KAISEKI in my article about another three Michelin stared establishment in Kyoto – Kichisen.
Address: 459 Shimokawara-cho, Yasaka Toriimae-sagaru. Shimokawara-dori, HIgashiyama-ku, Kyoto, Japan.
Contact: +(81) 075 561 0015
Opening hours: Lunch 12noon-2pm; Dinner starts at 5pm, last searing at 8pm.

The global bubble tea phenomenon: tasty and fun way to enjoy tea in and out

As with the omnipresent juice bars in the previous decade, at least as numerous as the Starbucks coffee joints, now the world is being splashed with a fun new drink – bubble tea. It is not a fizzy version of tea as its title may suggest, but a tea beverage with added chewy tapioca balls that often sink to the bottom of the glass or a plastic cup into which it is poured.

Served with our without milk, with sugar levels adjustable to meet consumer needs, chunks of various fruits or a splash of japanese probiotic milk product called yakult, the Taiwanese bubble tea became a refreshing entertainment not just for kids but also for many open-minded adults. Particularly for those, who visited Asia and fell for the fun and diverse flavours of this drink.
Also known as ‘boba’ or ‘pearl’ milk tea, this Taiwanese tea-based drink was invented in the 1980s in tea shops in Taichung, Taiwan.

The term ‘bubble’ is derived from the Chinese bōbà (波霸) – meaning literally “large breasts”. It is indeed a revealingly vivid term for the large, tapioca starch-based, black coloured chewy balls put into the brew (I would assume that it was a man who came with the term).
These bubbles are also called ‘pearls’ (珍珠, zhēnzhū), when their volume is smaller than that of the standard balls.

Where you can get it

In the new millennium, the iced or hot tea drinks have started gushing all over the world like a bubbling lava flushing from the throat of a volcano. From Taiwan, it flew to China, Japan, Singapore, Thailand and recently even to the trend spotting California, New York as well as to the more than ever receptive Europe (London, Paris, Prague, Nice, … I could find it at the most unexpected locations – basically wherever there is a substantial Asian population).

What is in it – common ingredients

With the bubble tea mania contagiously spreading around the globe, there are endless flavours, combinations and ingredients. Almost each newly affected tea addict contributes to the bubble tea’s encyclopaedia with a new twist. From a salted cream topping, through cooked adzuki beans, coconut jelly, local fruit (such as plum), sweet probiotic beverage (‘yakult’) bringing more flavour or a health benefit.
The above pictured Matcha bubble tea is rich in antioxidants, but its wafer topping and full fat milk makes it more like a calories-dense dessert than a refreshing drink. The added grass jelly is good for your bones though.

Ice-blended versions are usually mixed with fruit or syrup, resulting in a slushy, smoothie-like consistency. Sugar can be very high in these drinks, but many places let you choose from 90 through 0 level of added sugar in your drink making it more healthful.

In place of the tapioca balls, consisting mainly from a palm derived starch, a wide range of other colourful or weirdly shaped ingredients are used to add a surprising bite (texture) to the drink. Some are natural, others less so.
For example green pearls have a small hint of green tea or apple flavor, and are chewier than the traditional tapioca balls.

A jelly with slightly crispy texture is also used in small cubes, stars, or noodle-like strips, with flavors such as coconut, konjac, lychee, mango often available at some shops. Adzuki beans or a paste from them are also typical toppings for Taiwanese shaved ice desserts,
A more healthy aloe (your skin will glow and your stomach be soothed) or a tasty calcium-rich egg pudding (custard pudding), carb-rich sago pearls (when cooked they have a spongy texture, sago is extracted from palms or cycad family plants), and taro (purple potatoes) balls.

Warm bubble tea is less common today, but its goes back to its origins since the oldest known bubble tea consisted of a mixture of hot black tea, small tapioca pearls, condensed milk, and syrup or honey. Share Tea in Singapore makes a very yummy version of it, but as they told me: “Pearls [bubbles] are not commonly added to hot bubble tea today.” Beans are more often a good option making it nutritious almost liquid breakfast.

Ultimately it is a street drink to be taken away. The Bubble Republic street vending car in Bangkok is an economic tea sales point. Like the local tuk-tuk three wheelers with their small noisy engines ramble through the city and stop where the driver senses potential clients.
Some are more high-tech like Each a Cup in Singapore. Located mainly in modern shopping malls or at business buildings, many are equipped with large screens highlighting the favourites and interviews with local celebrities relishing their beloved cup of bubble tea. They are also informative guiding to healthier alternatives to tapioca starch such as Nata de coco that is “high in dietary fiber and low in cholesterol and fat.” The nata de coco is sliced into thin strips to make it easier to pass through a straw. Each a Cup also prides itself in using real tea bags rather than fake tea powder like many of its competitors do.

Not a bubble like a bubble

The taste and texture differs tremendously. Firm, evenly shaped tapioca balls are considered ideal. Koi in Singapore is widely considered by the locals to make them in top shape and texture.
Qualitatively speaking, the best bubble tea is made from real tea brewed freshly on the premises. Fresh milk can be added, although in some warmer climates powder milk is more hygienic. In the current natural food hype, cautiousness towards chemical additives is on a high alert for the bubble tea consumers. In May 2011, a food scandal broke out in Taiwan where DEHP (banned chemical plasticiser and potential carcinogen used to make plastic) was found as a stabilizer in drinks and juice syrups.

In London Cuppa Cha makes high quality real bubble tea, to my taste much better than the lab-like Bubbleology and many of the cheap tea joints in the London’s Chinatown.
My personal favourite from is the salted cream top tea (Gong-cha in Singapore and Hong Kong makes it the creamiest). I like it in all – black, red, oolong or green tea versions. Generally it is served without the bubbles with ice, yet it is still part of the bubble tea family. Its thick creamy cap satisfies enough ones cravings.

Another version of it is “foam milk tea” that is shaken before serving forming a frothy layer on the surface, but it should not be mistaken for the cream top tea, but is less heavy.
There are so many flavour-stirring options that can make your cup of tea the perfectly fitted custom-made drink you will love the most. Try as many as possible and find these that match best your taste and health preferences. I must admit, I am addicted, and now must run to my nearest bubble tea joint!

Ginza Sushi Aoki: Michelin-awarded simplicity for skill and top quality ingredients in Tokyo

The master sushi chef Toshikatsu Aoki took over his father’s restaurant SUSHI AOKI in 1993. On weekdays he operates his restaurant in Ginza and on Sundays at his other branch in the Nishi-Azabu neighbourhood, both in Tokyo. GINZA SUSHI AOKI was awarded one star in the Tokyo Michelin Guide for 4 consecutive years not for being original in combining uncommon multiple ingredients as Michelin often ranks high in the West, but for being faithful to the traditional mastery of edomae sushi (Tokyo used to be titled Edo) employing the finest available ingredients.

Cuisine: Japanese sushi and tsumami (snack) rice bowls (layered with fish, seafood, meat or vegetables) for lunch, omakase nigiri sushi and sashimi adjustable to guest’s requirements for dinner.
Visit: November 2013
Price: Very high (For lunch it is much cheaper as multiple set menus are available although these have to be paid in cash; for dinner credit cards can be used – Standard:￥10,00; Special:￥15,000; Deluxe:￥20,000 – the higher the price is, the better quality of the ingredients).

You can watch the art of slicing, dicing, chopping, forming and arranging of the sushi rice buns and rolls right in front of you as your chef prepares all the raw courses behind the wooden counter. Simple interior, no windows, natural colours, all spread across several floors with a private room that accommodates up to 10 people. Like most sushi spots in Tokyo, it is very casual.

Seasonal and daily changing sushi toppings are selected according to the freshest ingredients that the chef finds every morning (except Sunday) on the legendary Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. Both tsumami or nigiri zushi (sushi) can be adjusted to your request. “Tsumami” is a relish that is said to go well with alcoholic beverages, so sake flows constantly. I like to get a mix of sashimi and sushi, otherwise it is just too much rice and some fish stands out better just sliced like sashimi.

The best Spanish mackerel sashimi I have eaten to date was at Sushi Aoki. The squid looked like a chewy mushroom, but was tender and crisp, far from being a sea version of a marshmallow.

For some, this might be an adventurous course. Nevertheless, the trio of marinated oysters, scallops and octopus is delightful so shed any worries and dive in as more quirky food is about to come. The smoked squid may look unattractive, but not everything lacking its visual appeal is bad on the palate. Like with people, getting to know these sea creatures through more senses, one concludes how wonderful they are!

In between all these diverse plates refreshing one’s palate with a mouthful of zesty ginger is must. At Sushi Aoki they serve the palate invigorating, in vinegar marinated ginger cut in chunks, not grated.

The white fluke on a rice bun melted softly in my mouth, and I am reminded of the art of making the perfect rice for sushi. Each chef has his own recipe and his own preferred rice. Moreover, there are hundreds or perhaps even thousands of different types of rice that change from the field to the producer polishing the rice, which is challenging for anyone seeking the perfect texture and stickiness needed for the best sushi rice. At Sushi Aoki they found the prefect rice. Sticky enough to keep shape, yet not mushy with grains sensed on the palate.

After a superb white sea eel aka sawani, chu- and o-toro aka medium fat and fatty tuna, and a squid sushi came the crème de la crème of our dinner, the exquisite Hokkaido uni. There are no words to perfectly describe its delicate, almost orgasmic texture. One must just try the unctuous contents of the spiky sea urchin and allow for this divine feeling penetrate each cell of the body – from the mouth to belly, the uni moves you like a lasting vibration of a guitar string.

Concluding the multi-course omakase dinner with an unexpectedly tasty vegetarian roll. Usually, I find the cucumber rolls quite boring, but this one had savoury Japanese pickles included as well. The omnipresent tamago – a sweet egg omelet shaped into a cake that you either love or hate – is customarily served at the end of each traditional omakase course. At Sushi Aoki this combo naturally swung from the seafood to the warm tea served to sooth your belly before moving on.

Drinks: There are not many wines on the list, but if you insist on some alcoholic grape-based tipple, you will find a good match. The sake selection is much better and worth exploring. Let the server recommend you the right sake according to your taste preferences. Do you like it more sweet, stronger or rather plummy, fruity? At Sushi Aoki they will find the best drinking partner to accompany your meal. Green tea is served upon request throughout the dinner.
I dined at the Ginza location.
Takahashi Building, 2nd Floor, 7-4, Ginza 6-chome, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan.
Lunch：12:00 – 14:00; Dinner：17:00 – 22:00; Closed during the New Year Holidays
Palais Royal Building, 1st Floor, 23-7, Nishi-Azabu 3-chome, Minato-ku, Tokyo, Japan.
Lunch：12:00 – 14:00; Dinner: 18:00 – 23:00
+81 332891044

Ippodo: once tea for Japanese emperors today caters from Kyoto to modern New York

Ippodo is one of the oldest and most known tea brands in Japan. Their expanding tea houses specialise in Japanese green tea grown around Kyoto. Various grades of matcha, gyokuro, sencha and bancha are being sold and precisely prepared at their authentic stores in Kyoto, Tokyo and now also in New York.

Kyoto’s mild, misty climate, mineral-rich soil, and the right balance of sunshine and rainfall, yield the highest quality green teas in Japan. From these the highest grade gyokuro would take over the imperial tea seat. Gyokuro is not for everyone though, since some palates might find its grassy flavour too raw. The Japanese have solved this inconvenience with Sencha, that became very popular abroad for its fresh yet more subtle taste. Nevertheless, many Japanese still prefer the more potent (since you literally eat the leafs, its theine content is at least twice of the regular green tea) powdered matcha.
Not only the Japanese love their matcha in tea lattes, cappuccinos, frappes, ice creams, sweet and savoury pastries and chocolates, but worldwide, matcha latte has been for some time the caffeinated drink of choice of the big city dwellers. Matcha is now offered at the American-born Starbucks and Teavana branches, with its Japanese counterpart Nana’s Green tea teasing the sweet tooths of the Japanese as well as the other Asian nations. Nana’s special matcha drinks and desserts go beyond our Western imagination. Even the top chocolatiers from Europe to Asia, the Americas and Australia use matcha in their indulgent creations (it tastes best in white chocolate), and pastry chefs make anything from cookies to croissants with this powdered green gem. Matcha has become a global obsession!

There is a problem though with diminishing of the matcha’s healthful properties such as high antioxidant content when exposing it to heat. Not everyone treats the sensitive green teas properly, crippling not just the quality, but also the tea’s flavour profile. On the other hand, any serious tea house will patiently, aligned with the philosophy of tea connoisseurship, explain, and serve all teas in a correct way. Ippodo is one of the leaders in this tea enlightenment.
Almost 300 years (it was founded in 1717) in the tea business allowed Ippodo to learn where the best teas grow and which plantations maintain high quality. The house further preserved the traditions of the japanese tea ceremony. After all, IPPODO literally means “preserve one” and this name was given to the shop by the Prince Yamashina, who was a frequent customer together with many other imperial family members.

True to its heritage, Ippodo has established the Kaboku Tearoom at the Kyoto store, where anyone can learn the japanese art of tea in a tea-making workshop. The experience must be arranged upon request. Anyone visiting can also prepare his own tea with the help of the Ippodo staff while sitting in the casual tea room. If you order a bowl of matcha, it will be skilfully whipped at your table to a frothy perfection resembling a top-notch Italian cappuccino.

A wide range of japanese sweets and snacks accompany the tea at Ippodo. Originally named kaiseki, these were small dishes served during the tea ceremony to nourish its participants while enjoying their tea. I tried the Kyoto-style matcha with a kaiseki rice snack made of sweet sticky beans. The first sip of this dense wheatgrass green potion is a shock for even the most avid tea drinkers. The dose of matcha is higher than usual adding to just a tiny amount of water poured on it, so it drinks like a thick grassy and bitter paste. The mouth recovering snack is really needed when trying this traditional Kyoto style matcha! It comes as a relief that after two gruesome sips, more water is added, finally creating a more palatable drink. Extremely high in caffeine, it will surely sustain your energy for the rest of the day walking or cycling around town.

Many of the other, mostly local, teas can also be tasted at the store before buying, which is a huge advantage, saving you money as well preventing a disappointment when you drink the brew later at home. Even here in the most traditional of Japanese cities, a take-away is available for the rushed modern dwellers.
In Tokyo Ippodo has a branch in the trendy shopping district of Marunouchi, and like its mother tea shop, just steps away from the Imperial Palace. In 2013 Ippodo has opened its third tea house in Manhattan, New York. I wonder whether its location on the 39th street has any imperial connections too?
Locations: Teramachi-dori Nijo, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 604-0915, Japan. Contact: +(81) 03 6212 0202
Opening hours: 9:00 am – 7:00 pm (6:00 pm on Sundays & holidays). Closed during New Year’s holidays.
Kokusai Building, 1F, 3-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, 100-0005 Tokyo, Japan.‎ Contact: +(81) 075 211 3421
New York: 125 E 39th Street, Manhattan, 10016, NY, USA. Contact: +(1) 212 370 0609

Jugetsudo: seaweed and tea transplanting Japanese health from Tokyo to Paris

Jugetsudo was founded by the Maruyama family, that has been originally sourcing best seaweed in Japan since late 19th century. Its location at the famous Tsukiji Chuo-ku fish market in Tokyo, did not limit the owners to focus on the products of the sea solely, but tea was later adopted into the brand’s family of merchandise.

Whether it was the raw tea leaf’s green colour, not too dissimilar to seaweed, or the family’s infatuation with the healthy drink, that lead to its expansion into the tea business, one is sure – today there are three excellent Jugetsudo Japanese tea rooms and shops not just in Tokyo, but also in Paris, France.
In Tokyo the first tea house at Tsukiji has the most authentic and raw feel, while its second, and the largest location just above the kabuki theater is more modern and sleek, and its Paris location is the smallest, yet cosy and well-designed.

In Tokyo the entire Jugetsudo range of teas alongside beautiful tea accessories is available, while in Paris the selection is a bit limited. Still, the focused way your tea is being served at Jugetsudo in Paris is unique and cannot be found anywhere else. Further, as in Japan, the various tea sets consist of a pot of tea with authentic Japanese sweets. In Paris the confectionery is made by the celebrated Japanese pastry chef Sadharu Aoiki. The green tea and seaweed cookies I had with my pot of top-grade green sencha (16EUR per set is not a bargain though) were exquisite.

In Tokyo I had a pot of roasted green hojicha with a japanese take on the French creamy dessert with chestnuts. The Mont Blanc was made with green tea and was lighter than its original French version. Sitting along the counter, I meditated over the warm cup of tea and savoured each morsel of the cake melting like a frozen caramel in my mouth. I entirely forgot about the noise and hustle of the neighbouring fish market I visited earlier, and tuned my mind into a zen-like mode.

Addresses:
Tsukiji Kyoeikai Building 1F, 4-7-5 Tskukiji, Chuo-ku, 104-0045 Tokyo, Japan.
Kabukiza Tower 5F, 4-12-15 Ginza,Chuo-ku, 104-0045 Tokyo, Japan.
95 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris, France.
Contacts:
Tsukiji: +(81) 03 3547 4747
Kabukiza Tower: +(81) 03 6278 7626
Paris: +(33) 01 4633 9490

Bvlgari brings chocolate gems to Tokyo

The luxurious Italian jewellery house Bvlgari upped its game for the sweet connoisseurs by introducing a high-end range of chocolate confectionery in Japan. The perfectly moulded morsels of Bvlgari chocolate are essentially filled with bespoke Italian and Japanese ingredients coated in dark, milk or white chocolate couverture.

From Japanese popular flavours like yuzu and chestnuts, to very Italianate, but for chocolate rather unusual mascarpone, vintage balsamic vinegar and dried pancetta, Bvlgari plays its own league in the sport of chocolate making. The favourites are the round printed “Bvlgari Bvlgari” chocolate gems seasonally crafted with the finest Italian and Japanese ingredients (1,500 yen/piece). Now, in the fall, the flavours of citrusy yuzu and matcha green tea are available. Bridal white Bvlgari chocolate can be personalised to both groom’s and bride’s requirements for their special day.

The line is uniquely blended as well. I tried and loved the Tomato, creamy mascarpone cheese and white chocolate ganache with Madagascar cacao bean dark chocolate (64%). Other temptations are : Dried figs, vintage balsamic vinegar, milk chocolate ganache coated in dark Venezuelan chocolate (55%); Saffron, chestnut from Ehime and dark chocolate ganache enrobed in bitter Venezuelan cacao (55%); Black pepper, dried pancetta and gorgonzola blue cheese ganache in Indonesian bean milk chocolate (41%); and many more some seasonally updated.

Luxurious Chocolates and ultra high-end champagne go naturally hand in hand, so pairing the sweet Bvlgari treats with Dom Perignon and Krug champagnes is a wonderful idea. Almost anyone would be pleased by such a pompous gift. I would pair the lighter types, such as white and milk chocolates, the cheese and nut based ganaches, pralines and truffles with the fizz. The intensity of some of the dark chocolates, especially those filled with liquors, does not overpower the beauty of the drink.

Prestigious location in Ginza on the 10th floor of the Bvlgari house inside the chic Bvlgari Il Cafe underlines the elevated message to luxury-seeking customers.
東京都中央区銀座 2-7-12 ブルガリ銀座タワー10F Chuo, Ginza, 104-0061 Tokyo, Japan.
Daily 12noon-8pm. Closed on holidays.

Higashiya Ginza: tea sanctuary in the midst of bustling shoppers' paradise

Higashiya Ginza is one of the top tea houses in Tokyo serving Japanese afternoon tea consisting of the in-house made sweets, Japanese pickles and small rice-based savoury snacks. For any visor sitting down, relaxing and enjoying a pot of one of the high quality Japanese teas from Higashiya’s wide selection, becomes an authentic cultural and gastronomic encounter in the heart of Tokyo.

Booking a private, tatami floor low seating, room secures an experience of the full tea and food pairing menu. Anyone, without reservation, can buy the extremely attractive tea utensils designed by the owner (splurge on tea pots, cups, bowls,…) or surprise the most cherished friends, lovers or partners with the beautifully and meticulously packaged sweets and snacks on the front counter. Beware, many have a short sell-by-date. I had to, abandon the idea of tasty Christmas presents for family and friends. They are so delicate and light that the only guilt you might feel after eating them is all the paper waste from the Japanese style packaging.

Higashiya offers a full tea lifestyle with a fashionable twist. At their modern tea rooms blended with traditional design aspects, you can sit casually at the bar, like at a sushi counter, and watch the entire preparation right in front of you. Most of the people sipping and dining there are Japanese, this is by no means a tea room for tourists, and I love it. It feels contemporary authentic.

You can also just zen out at one of the wooden tables and be pampered by the waiters. You will get your tea already prepared so you can just sip and enjoy its relaxing and sharp mind promoting benefits. There are many seasonal teas according to their picking, so the lengthy menu changes as the year goes. In the spring the best and freshest teas are being picked so it is the best time to savour these (gyokuro and tip-teas are of the highest quality), while in the fall and winter the locally popular slightly roasted houjicha, genmaicha and even some pure green sencha from different regions are all good to drink.

Partnering with the globally known cosmetics brand Aesop in the creation of a line of sweets secured an up-to-date image to the increasingly popular concept of Higashiya Ginza. There is always someone peaking in looking to buy some sweets or snacks and the spacious tea room stays full from the morning (opens at 11am) until the late afternoon (7pm) and evening (10pm) on weekends.

Pola building, 1 Chome-7-7 Ginza, Chuo, Tokyo, Japan.‎
+81 3 3538 3230

Koshu: a pinkish indigenous grape of Japan

The Koshu grape variety is indigenous of Japan. It is lightly pinkish as a Pinot Gris, has thick skin so it can be quite tanninc, light aroma so it shows on palate a delicate and subtle character. The wine made from Koshu can get pinkish hues if it is macerated with it’s skins for longer. As it was case in the Lumiere Koshu 2011 vintage, with a delicate peachy character. The tannins from the skins were not flashy since the acidity of the grape reduced the astringent tannic mouth-feel.
The wines made from Koshu are naturally lower in alcohol – 11-12% is typical.

Winemaking

varies from a winery to winery, yet stainless steel for fermentation and ageing is the most popular in order to preserve the fresh nature of these wines. There are exceptions however. I’ve tasted a highly- promising barrel aged Koshu with Battard- like butterscotch flavour enhanced by malolactic fermentation. The complexity wasn’t close to the prominent Burgundies, yet the Koshu’s high acidity and mineral character from it’s volcanic soil resonated well with the oak and buttery touch from the malolactic fermentation. The oak must be kept in balance as the wine can be easily overpower by it. Koshu is not an aromatic grape so it absorbs oak a lot.
Unlike in the EU, most of wines are chaptalised (against the EU law).

The vineyards growing the Koshu grape are located West of Tokyo in Yamanashi prefecture, often considered to be Japan’s “kingdom of fruits” as grapes, peaches, plums, cherries and strawberries grow here in abundance. It is the natural beauty bestowed with water- rich reservoirs, lakes and perhaps the proximity to the highest mountain in Japan Mt. Fuji, that makes Yamanashi so appealing to many agriculturists including the grape growers.
Many of the wineries offer stunning views of this legendary Japanese mountain, with the producers proud of their special location. Mount Fuji is traditionally regarded by the Japanese to be sacred.
Yamanashi prefecture with its town Katsunuma is the home of Koshu. The soil is largely volcanic, with some clay and gravel at some spots and it is extremely fertile. For quality wines high yelds have to be controlled, so the serious producers have lots of work to put into their vineyards, the fact that perhaps is one of the main reasons for selling their wine for a surprisingly high price.
An umbrella system of attached waxed paper around the fruit to protect it from the rain is unique to this area. A pergola crop management protects the grapes from the harm of the rot. Manual harvest is therefore necessary and it is very labour intense. One of the factors adding to the higher cost of Koshu.
Geographically, at 35 latitude North the vineyards are in the similar spot as California and South of Spain. The weather is rather extreme as it can be icy cold in the winter and very rainy during the monsoon season in summer. The wet climate and resulting high humidity is an anchor of rot and as in France it can be a big problem. Although, in Japan the rot is more harmful as the rain falls mainly during the growing summer season. Moreover, the rainfall varies annually – one year in a certain month it can be 230 mm and another three and more times less – therefore the winemakers could not rely on having the same crop on every vintage. That is in contrast with the New world wineries such as in Chile and Argentina where the weather is more stable and predictable.
The vineyards are owned by mostly independent growers (today some 80.000), which gave rise to co- operatives. With the vineyards tending to be very small (about 2 hectars is quite common), like in Burgundy producing wine in co-operatives is highly sensible. Many families are well- established in the wine industry. Winemaking started there in the late 19.th century. Although Koshu has been known in Japan for over 1000 years, wine started to be made from it about 130 years ago.

As Jancis Robinson, MW, OBE, pointed out at a recent tasting in London, “Its origins are mysterious. There seems to be a non- vinifera relationship. Genetic make- up is unclear.”
Jancis also said: “Koshu is a very narrow spectrum of wines, it’s rather subtle, it absolutely doesn’t jump out of the glass. It goes tremendously well with Japanese food.”
Book about it co-written by her is coming out in October 2012.
The Wines: more introvert in style, need age to develop, quite similar to a Swiss Challais, in particular with its finesse. The nose reminds me often a sort of ricy, slightly fermented character. It boosts with a marked acidity.
Vintages
Compared to 2010&2011, the 2009 was a very good vintage.
2011 was a very complicated one: two taiphoons brought strong rain, mildew hit the area at the end of a 2010 season.
Overall, Koshu surprised me. It is a promising yet lesser known varietal, which over time may gain more attention from serious wine connoisseurs.

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